Travel
Notes, guides, and misadventures from the road.

Sleeping in the Walls of Fez
The medina's oldest guesthouses are built into a maze with no street signs — and that, longtime visitors say, is precisely the point.
Aug 26, 2026

The Bus That Never Has a Timetable
In the highlands, the bus leaves when the driver decides it's full enough — and somehow, everyone always seems to know when that is.
Aug 26, 2026
The night train to Ho Chi Minh City
Twelve hours, three strangers, and a window that would not close.
Aug 25, 2026
Hitchhiking across Patagonia with no plan
Six rides, one flat tire, and a lesson in trusting strangers.
Aug 25, 2026
Seven days in the Atlas mountains
Notes from a slow trek through Berber villages, where mint tea outlasts every itinerary.
Aug 25, 2026